I have based myself in
Masaya for my last two nights. I am in a friendly family run hostel called
Hostel Mi Casa that’s in a bit of disrepair but i at least have my own room for
$7! For the first time in 5 weeks I can walk around naked after a shower! Bliss.
Masaya is close enough to the airport and I am avoiding staying in Managua any
longer than I have to. As far as capital cities go I found it completely
charmless and intimidating! I felt like I was going to get kidnapped at any
moment.
I arrived in Masaya from
Ometepe in the afternoon and went for a quick stroll, past houses selling
beautiful handmade hammocks, finding the waterfront overlooking Laguna de
Masaya. Still with plenty of time, I headed for the Artisan Market for which
most tourists visit Masaya. Yes! Shopping time! It is full of traveller
souvenirs; bags, pottery, wooden bowls, t-shirts, hammocks all within a
beautiful old building. I was sceptical at the prices, I am sure it all costs
more if you're white. I came away empty handed. There was a lot of tat to
rummage through, I didn't think my family would thank me for bringing them back
anything from here, although looking back I do wish I had splurged on a hammock!
 |
Market, Masaya
|
With Masaya done in a few
hours I looked to my Lonely Planet for inspiration. Near to Masaya are the
Pueblos Blancos or 'white villages' carved from the eruptions of Volcano
Mombacho. The next morning I walked to the huge municipal market that sells all
manner of shoes, pots, pans, raw meat, fruit and vegetables, household items,
piñatas, anything you can think of! A big, loud and busy place where the buses
are also stationed. I took the bus for a few cordobas to Catarina. I had no
idea what I'd find, I just knew it was the closest village. The bus dropped me
off at the side of the road and a tuk tuk drove me through the village to the
top of the hill where I was enchanted to find the most incredible view of
Laguna de Apoyo! You could see Mombacho and Granada in the distance! I spent
the afternoon writing in the shade, taking in the spectacular surroundings.
Catarina itself is heavenly picturesque. Neat houses and many nurseries
spilling plants. The village has a lovely, peaceful way of life that is
beautifully far away from dusty bustling Masaya. It is a gorgeous insight into
Nicaraguan culture that is seldom interrupted by tourists. Most stop briefly
for the view as part of a tour but taking your time in these villages is
something special. I would definately recommend skipping Masaya in favour of
Los Pueblos Blancos, there are a few accommodations in Catarina. I was aching
to see the sunset and go for a run along the rim of the lagoon, but sadly I had
to make my way back before dark.
On my walk back i hunted
through the market stalls in Catarina, a smaller but far more impressive
selection and superior quality than Masaya. There were some beautifully
esoteric things such as wooden rocking horses, furniture and intricately
painted ceramics. The vendors happily talk to you and tell you where each item
is made. I ended up purchasing a beautiful handmade leather rucksack from
Carlos and a very Whistles-esque purse that my friend Frank kindly knocked a
few dollars off for me after I explained my need to make it to the airport with
the remainder of my pennies. I sped back to Masaya and bought pineapple,
freshly made tortillas and avocado to serve as my dinner and tomorrow's
breakfast, I haven't found anywhere worth eating out in Masaya. Better off
making my own food for a couple of dollars.
It was such a dreamy
afternoon, the sky perfectly blue, and my skin soaking up my last day of
sunshine. I would happily have spent several days exploring the Pueblos
Blancos, especially Masatepe and San Juan de Oriente. It's a well-kept
Nicaraguan secret, I haven't heard any other backpackers mention them! Buses
run frequently between the villages for less than 10 cordobas a ride. This
concludes my final day in Nicaragua and what a gorgeous way to end it in
Catarina. I have had the most incredible travel experience. I feel so blessed,
so tired, a bit dishevelled and ready for home. That being said, I would do it
all again in a heartbeat.
Imogen
 |
| Pottery Stalls, Catarina |
 |
| Laguna De Apoyo |
 |
| A Nursery in Catarina |
