I believe these girls deserve
a special mention. They gave me everything I wanted from travelling and more.
After waking up in
Dalhousie I spent the day exploring the village, swimming in the river and
watching monkeys dance through the trees. I began to feel more comfortable as I
talked to travellers staying in my guesthouse. A Tamil woman cooked me roti straight
from her stove and it was the most delicious thing I tasted in Sri Lanka. I ate
dinner under a mango tree at a stunning guesthouse run by a Christian family.
Dalhousie is so beautiful, tranquil and remote, and well worth the difficult
journey to get there.
Dalhousie |
I began my adventure
climbing Adam’s Peak at two in the morning, setting out underneath the
moonlight. This gave me a good four hours for a comfortable uphill climb to the
summit. It was the strangest and most exhilarating climb. You could see the
path of lights snaking around the mountain. Small groups were making their
descent, tourists and locals alike. The tourists in full hiking gear, the
locals in saris and flip-flops. It was very companionable, chatting to an
English couple who had climbed Adam’s Peak twenty years ago, and seeing statues
of Buddha along the way.
Adam's Peak at sunset |
About halfway up, a man
waved at me from the top of the steps. Him and his wife were sitting with two Czech
girls, Martina and Eliska, whom they had met in Kandy. They shared their snacks
and we talked about what had brought us to this place. I continued the climb up
the mountain with them. You could feel the drop in temperature as we entered
the sky. We stopped at shacks where there was hot sweet tea. I swear tea has
never tasted so good. I remember that first conversation I had with Martina,
the exclamation in her face as I told her my age ‘Twenty! Only twenty!’ Martina
and Eliska are sisters, who moved to London from Czech when they were young
adults. They are the most genuine, welcoming and caring people. I am very lucky
to have met them.
Tea in the clouds |
We reached the top of
Adam’s Peak; at this point I got separated from Martina and Eliska as the
crowds were growing. I stuck with the French couple. We climbed over the gated
walkway and onto a rock that we had all to ourselves. There was not a more
perfect spot to watch the sunrise. There was complete silence amongst the crowd
of people. I am lost for words as how to describe how awestruck I was, how
peaceful and momentous it was to be in the clouds, watching the black sky give
way to pink, then orange and see that first chink of light. It blew my mind.
See as many sunrises and sunsets in your life as possible, best advice I’ve
ever received.
My favourite sunrise of all time |
We descended down the
mountain as the sun grew baking hot. I moved to the guesthouse where Martina,
Eliska and the French couple were staying. It was called The Greenhouse,
painted in the same hue with plants everywhere, run by a Tamil woman and her
family.
The Greenhouse Garden |
The French guy had a great
knack for making friends and tremendous energy for adventure. He had befriended
some locals and we drove in the back of their van, speeding down winding roads,
watching the hill sweep behind us. Originally, the plan was to go to the lake,
but the sun quickly vanished and rain fell hard and fast. We ended up in one of
the group’s homes, drinking Arack – a coconut liqueur, and singing in loud
drunk voices, banging away on makeshift instruments. Martina has a very
dignified video of me singing Buffalo soldier, conducting my band with a lit
cigarette. Think Bridget Jones in that scene in the Thai prison.
Eliska, Dalhousie |
Martina, Dalhousie |
The next day we left
Dalhousie, I travelled with Martina and Eliska to Ella to see tea plantations
and waved goodbye to the French couple as they went south. The best thing about
travel is altering your plans depending where the wind takes you. After Ella I
went to Arugam Bay with the girls, a place that is simply paradise, where I
have never felt so happy. These girls are like magnets, Martina has the most
incredible skill of making friends and connections with people that endure, and
Eliska is so thoughtful and kind. Since meeting, the past two summers we have
had our holiday in Devon. Which is how I’ve also met Ilona, a friend of Martina’s,
who is so warm and charming. The four of us surf, eat, drink and talk and
reminisce on that miraculous encounter that formed our friendship. Travel doesn't just open doors, it gives you doors. It opens your world up in a way you couldn't imagine and stays with you long after you come home.
Imogen
Martina, Eliska, Ilona and I in Devon |